• Bowtech has created the OverDrive Binary™ synchronized dual cam system. This cam system is setup to provide stability while still maintaining exceptional cay synchronization.
• Their latest bowhunting technology for limbs are the HardCore Limbs™ which store energy throughout the limbs and not just on the surface. This reduces stress on the bow and causes less vibration after shooting.
• Bowtech changed the cable containment with the FLX-Guard™ system. This absorbs cable guard torque by flexing when the bow is pulled back.

To see more features on Bowtech’s latest bowhunting technology and watch them in action click the link below.

Bowtech 2010 Technologies

There are a few things you should know before you paper tune your compound bow. For example, you should know what kind of hole your arrow should make in the paper and how to fix your bow if it is not correct. For more details about paper tuning your bow click the link below.

Paper Tuning 101 | Base Camp Legends

To properly paper tune a bow, you will need basic materials that most pro shops should have set up for you. However, if you so choose to do it at home, you can stretch newspaper between two 2×4′s or whatever you have available to hold …

Publish Date: 07/07/2009 9:33

http://www.basecamplegends.com/2009/07/paper-tuning-101/

To see exactly how to paper tune your compound bow watch the demonstration video below.

BowCast – Episode #28 – Paper Tuning

In this episode of BowCast Aneal is joined by Matt Hogue – Archery Lead at Sportsman’s Warehouse in Littleton, CO. Matt and Aneal go through the process of paper tuning and correction to get your arrow flying straight out of your bo…

One thing that is critical to improve whitetail deer habitat that is often overlooked is what I like to refer to as “Segregation of the Sexes”. We all know that 4 one acre plots is better than 1 four acre plot…same with bedding areas, beds, etc. However, I think it’s more extreme to the point that 4 well placed 1 acre plots is better than 1 ten acre plot. The more feeding areas you have, the more bedding areas you have, the more room you make on your property for segregation of the sexes. You not only allow room for both sexes, but age of sexes as well.

That’s why I personally don’t advocate large, single plantings of any species. For example, if you planted a two acre brassica field and the deer didn’t touch the brassicas until mid-Nov., that would eliminate the deer usage in the early season. However, I don’t like to see 8 plots with different plantings on each plot. Instead, I like to see combinations of plantings within the same plot. You can do this with designated perennial portions that you maintain indefinitely by alternating combination plantings that include cool season plantings, and you can also include designated annual planting areas that are rotated between cool and warm season plantings in the same year.

In the end though you keep each plot’s efficiency high for the entire year, you scatter the deer herd, and you make room for more deer including both sexes. Unless you want deer NOT to use a plot for some reason during certain times of the year because you have to walk through them to access stands, etc….then by all means do not plant single plantings on a plot because that plot will experience time line holes in nutrition and attraction that lead to less deer that can use your property, in particular when they have the largest chance of being shot.

If I had to choose 1 crop to improve whitetail deer habitat, I would go with cool-season crops so I’m getting the highest amount of efficiency when the local deer herd is the most susceptible to getting shot, basically the month of November.

Also, on your property with all the switchgrass, your plots will actually help to separate your bedding areas, at least by defining them more for various family groups or bucks to use as opposed to one large wandering, undefined bedding area. Multiple efficient plots will also help to encourage more use of the defined bedding areas throughout the hunting season as long as those plots offer great attraction during Nov. and later. I’ve never cared if the deer were eating on my neighbors great crops and nutrition during the summer…as long as they lived in and around my property during Nov. and Dec.

There is no reason that with that much cover you shouldn’t actually be collecting deer as the season progresses as food supplies are dwindling and hunting pressure is most intense, but you have to have enough quality small food sources and diversity in bedding area.

They are a little known member of the Brassica family, which also includes rape, kale, turnips, mustard, canola and cabbage. It may be a little early to tell, but forage or trophy radishes may be the best overall Brassica option for a deer planting. It supplies the combination of high nutrition in the top and root, attraction, huge production, fast germination and growth and a large deeply penetrating taproot that breaks soil compaction in heavy soils.

Research data from Dr. Ray Weil at the University of Maryland shows dry-matter production of 5,000 lbs./acre for top growth (shoots and leaves) plus 2,000 lbs./acre of root dry matter.

According to Dr. Weil, “A good forage-radish cover crop adds significant quantities of easily decomposed organic matter to the soil.”

Radishes grow so fast they can be used to smother and suppress weeds while enhancing the seedbed. They die-off in winter, resulting in rapidly decomposing residues that enrich the soil. They add organic matter high in nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, sulfur, calcium, boron) to the soil for a companion or follow-up crop to utilize. They are much easier to grow than finicky sugar beets and are well adapted throughout the Northeast, Southeast and Midwest.

Forage radish does not look like a radish at all, but more like a huge, long, green-and-white carrot, which can reach lengths of 18 to 24 inches. These long radishes add organic matter and aerate and loosen the soil, even in heavy clay. Better yet, unlike other Brassicas, which are often ignored by deer in the first year, deer seem to learn quickly to eat the green top growth as well as the radish itself.

Indications are, from actual visual observations of feeding deer, that unlike many Brassicas where a freeze makes the greens sweeter and provides better palatability, deer eat radishes before the first freeze ever takes place. In test plots in the Southeast, deer began feeding actively on the greens shortly after emergence in September, even in a very good acorn year. Unlike other Brassicas, they are resilient after grazing pressure, quickly sprouting more new leafy growth. In the mature plant, a December sample and lab test from radishes in New York revealed protein levels higher than 20 percent for both the top and root, even after the forage quality had begun to decline from cold weather. This was equal to or greater than a highly marketed, well-known commercial Brassica blend.

Radishes can be planted alone or as part of a food-plot mix, which might include clovers and small grains with radishes used as a nurse crop. We prefer a mix as radishes need at least 60 pounds an acre of actual nitrogen for best growth, and some of this, especially during root development, can be supplied by clover. In addition, after radishes fade in winter, you are still left with a vigorous stand of clover and small grains growing on a much improved, loosened and enriched seedbed. Like all other members of the Brassica family, radishes should not be grown on the same ground for more than two successive years because of a possible build up of diseases in the soil. Normally, a two-year rest period is enough before planting radishes again.

A new forage variety known as Trophy Radishes performed well and lived up to high expectations in New York and Georgia test plots in 2008, despite less-than-ideal conditions, including drought, cold and snow. The 96 New York deer that were digging through a foot of snow were in a 2-acre Trophy Radish plot in late February.

Fertilize your plot with 300 lbs./acre of 19-19-19 or 2 to 3 tons per acre of chicken litter. Disk the plot to incorporate fertilizer/litter and prepare a smooth, weed-free seed bed. Broadcast seed and drag or cultipack. Do not cover seed more than 1/2 inch deep. Trophy Radishes can also be planted in pure stands at 10 lbs./acre for forage production or 15 lbs./acre to suppress weeds into early April. Better yet, broadcast at 5 lbs./acre, they make an ideal addition to clover/small grain plots, Brassica mixes or any food-plot crop for deer. Do not exceed these rates or fast-germinating radishes, out of the ground in two to four days after rain, will smother desirable companion crops.

Radishes should be planted by late August in the North and early to mid-September in the South. Do not attempt to grow them in the spring as they will rush to bloom and go to seed and results will be disappointing.

Incidentally, they are also good in stir fry or raw with a crispy, crunchy texture and mild sweet flavor. They are great in salads and very nutritious, especially high in calcium, phosphorus and iron. But best of all, deer love ’em.

Currently, Trophy Radishes are the only forage radishes on the market available to deer managers at a reasonable price. They will be available at Coopers Seed in Auburn. Call them at (877) 463-6697, or check them out online at <www.cooperseeds.com>.

Do you have access to hunt property like this? If so, are you using the property in a way to give you the best hunting opportunities?

In a situation like this, the number one thing to do would be to turn that woods into a place where every deer in the square mile will rush to hide when the hunting season starts and the corn is harvested. That woods being surrounded by acres of fields is your best source of sanctuary and cover to hold deer on your property and you don’t want to penetrate it to access your stands, so that deer will not be comfortable using it for a home base when hunting pressure is on. It would be better to reverse the thinking. Rather than hunting the center of the cover, give it to the deer, and hunt the edges. You want them living in the center of your property.

Pull every stand out of those woods and turn most of it into sanctuary. You will be better off having the deer bedding in the center of that wooded area than having them at the edges as they are now. If you or anybody else alerts deer while accessing a stand, they will hunker down tighter on your property rather than departing it. Make it so thick in there that you can’t see 30 yards anywhere. Make it difficult for deer to move directly into the fields from these woods. You want them to travel from their bedding areas in the thick woods into your food plots on the edges on their way to the fields in the evening, and have your food plots be the last place they visit as they come home to bed down in the morning.

You will actually find deer sneaking out in broad daylight to have a bite to eat if the cover is sufficient around the food plots. Now your new stand locations will be to intercept deer moving along those fence rows and at travel routes to and from your food plots to their sanctuary, or to and from from your food plots to preferred areas of the ag fields. Check out the fields very closely. The deer will not use the whole field for the most part. They will have preferred areas where they hit the corn or beans hard. Those are now mini food plots within the larger field, and you will be able to intercept them on their way to and from these spots and your food plots. You want both perennials like a clover-chicory mix and annuals but most importantly late season varieties that become desirable after the harvest. If it’s possible to enhance the cover to give them a more comfortable route to your food plots, great! Say autumn olives for example, or switch grass.

Much of the successful deer and habitat strategies come from thinking outside the box. Most guys are thinking about competing with other food sources when the real advantage comes in the form of having quality bedding areas and more of it.

The property where deer spend the most time bedded down during daylight hours wins.

1. Set up your stand according to the prevailing wind direction and only hunt that stand in the most ideal conditions for you. One whiff of you and a mature buck might never return to the deer bedding areas again.

2. You must beat the deer to your spot. Unfortunately this could mean sitting by 3:30 AM. If you think that you will be too late then don’t bother sitting there. That is the time to sit farther away from the deer bedding areas on a trail to their food supply.

3. Do not over hunt the stand or go there more often that necessary. Stay clear of the area well before hunting season starts, so make sure you have everything set up. The best times to hunt it is the rut so stay clear until that time, there is no need to let the deer know you are near the deer bedding areas before that time.

For more guidelines to follow and tips to locate deer bedding areas near you visit:

Hunting The Bedding Areas of Whitetail Deer.

Click the link below and it will take you to a new page, towards the bottom of the page is a description of each kind of plant that you might be able to put in your deer food plot.

Deciding What to Plant!

Clover is one of the most popular forage crops for deer. But clover is a bit ambiguious because there are so many varieties…

Remember to keep in mind where your deer food plot is located when choosing a seed. Some plants, for example brassicas, are not preferred by deer until cold weather sets in so if you live farther South those plants would not be the right choice for you.

Most importantly, stick with creating small ambush food plots because if you discover that what you planted was not a big hit with the deer, then there is always next year to easily change the food plot seed.

Follow the link below to refresh yourself about the techniques you should be practicing with. Remember to pull back with your back, not your arm or shoulder, don’t grip your bow, take a few seconds to aim, and always follow through.

Archery Tips

Getting this right takes time, especially if you haven’t been paying that much attention to the bow arm previously. Spend a few practice sessions focusing primarily on these techniques, possibly without a target on the boss. Don’t expect to get it right in ten minutes, but you should find it easier within the space of a session or two.

Here is a video to show you exactly what it will look like when you put all the techniques you learned above into action.

Archery Tips & Techniques : Various Archery Methods for Shooting a Bow & Arrow

Learn about various methods for shooting the bow and arrow in this free weapons training video on archery tips and techniques. Expert: Leroy Sisco Bio: General Leroy Sisco is currently retired from the military after completing a forty-two year career

http://archerylinks.blogspot.com/2010/05 /untitled.html

The benefits I’ve found from using the Ripshot are numerous. It forces you to use the correct muscles to draw the bow. It steadies your sight picture.

If your still skeptical with how effective the RIPshot archery release really is watch the 2 videos below to see exactly how it works and the success stories of other hunters.

Pre-Rut Whitetail Strategies

So why am I discussing pre-rut whitetail deer tactics in the middle of February you ask? Because there is no better time to be searching the woods for the sign that will lead you to a pre-rut stage monster buck this coming fall than …

Publish Date: 05/21/2010 22:35

http://whitetaildeerhunting.goolike.com/pre-rut-whitetail-strategies/

It is not wise to try and barge into an area close to a buck bed but there are times when this is possible. The best time to hunt up-close to a buck bed is during the rut. During this time bucks are gone more from their beds and it is possible to sneak in before they get back and prepare for their return. Learn more about how to hunt near a buck bed by clicking the link below for helpful tips.

Still Hunting Bedding Areas | Bowhunting Magazine and Archery Tips

Since then I have managed to arrow a couple of racked deer in their beds, and in fact every season seem to catch a buck or two bedded down on the edge of the thick stuff. Here are a few tips to consider the next time you get the inkling to sneak into a bedding area. Pick a day when the weather is in your favor. A blustery morning for example will quickly disperse your airborne scent to the four winds, and help mask any unwanted noise. … Tags: Whitetail Deer Hunting …

Publish Date: 06/06/2010 3:00

http://www.edersbow.com/how-to-hunt-whitetail-bedding-areas/